Africans did not invent the clock and I guess they never really got the hang of using it. We awoke early in order to get to the bus stop at 7:00 am for a 7:30
scheduled departure; so the bus left at 8:30…
How to describe Air EMAF… I think the best way would be a sardine can on wheels. You see this beloved vehicle was lacking in a few key areas. Before I go on, let me clarify one thing: Air EMAF does not operate any airplanes, rest assured.
From the outside, all looked fine: a fresh coat of forest green paint—but was this in order to hide the duck tape that held the paneling together? To get the bus going, 6 or 7 men had to give it a push; already I was weary. It doesn’t give the best first impression. During the entire 6-hour trip, we kept the bus running, even when we stopped to fuel-up.
Back to the lackings… Well up there on my list of priorities, probably at the top, were the brakes, but seeing as we never went over 50 km/h (and only 30 km/h for the part of the trip on the dirt road, some 130 km), I guess that I could live without brakes. Second on my list was individual seating. I spent most of the ride with someone sitting on half of my lap. At one stop, a man gets on with a couple of chicken in his hand; they guy sitting next to/on me says “no way, you’re not sitting here, there’s more place in the back.” They stopped packing people in, not when we ran out of seats but when there was no more standing room.
Dedougou was our final destination, with a transit through Koudougou, all the way from Ouagadougou; it’s the “dougou” route. The 100 km stretch between Ouaga and Koudougou is paved and so is relatively smooth, with a few obstacles here and there; donkey-pulled wagons, overpacked motorcycles and bicycles, some cows, pigs and sheep blockings. The only problem was that Air EMAF’s max speed was 50 km/h… At one point, a cyclist passed us, no joke.
I'd like to digress for a moment. About those donkey-pulled wagons... I remember seeing them in the heart of downtown Ouagadougou when I was last in Burkina Faso. It was quite a surprise to see a donkey, downtown! Well they were thereafter banned because they created a danger by slowing down traffic. I must be more precise; donkeys were banned. Okay, but for a law to be good, it has to be vague-enough to take care of any possible loopholes... banning donkeys was too precise. Now, you don't see the donkeys downtown, but you still see the wagons—only now they are pulled by a man!
Before: donkey-pulled wagons blocking traffic

After: man-pulled wagons blocking traffic

Now, back to the dougou trip...
At the first main stop in Koudougou, I witnessed my first mobile market. As our little engine who could slowed down, women jumped up and ran from across the street. Onions, bread, bananas, cakes and more on their head, they surrounded the bus in a matter of seconds.


After Koudougou the pavement ended and the dust began. The road narrowed and we squeezed by on-coming vehicles. I could sense that we were deep in the wild. I would see signs such as “Goulouré 9 km” pointing in a direction off the road, but with no road leading there, not even a trail, just wilderness.